Recos on what to do in Barcelona and Madrid
Spanish flag
We flew continental through newark to Madrid, then took the high speed train to Barcelona. After that we took a little domestic flight from Barcelona back to the airport in Madrid for our return home. The high speed train (booked through Rail Europe) is great. Beautiful views of countryside and ocean, fancy mulitple course meals and wine and cava. Too bad some passendgers don’t wear deodorant, is all. Two first-class one way seats from Madrid Atocha to Barcelona Sants station were $304.00 USD and worth every precious penny.
Madrid
We stayed at stylish, friendly, centrally located Room Mate Alicia at the Plaza Santa Ana, based on the recommendation of the New York Times. It was all we hoped for and more. We had a duplex room with King size bed, 2 floors with a great terrace and a private mini pool (1X2m) with views. Flat TV, minibar, safety box, working desk, CD player, telephone and DVD player. Three nights total was EUR 856.00.
Barcelona
HOTEL NERI. Norm’s a diva about hotels so while I was able to get him to “go budget” with Room Mate Alicia in Madrid, it was pure luxe all the way in Barcelona. If you can swing this, you are in for a truly transporting experience, and the new friends you make in Barcelona will long to sip cocktails on your rooftop. After they have photographed every completely uniquely designed artifact on every floor. http://www.hotelneri.com/ Four nights totaled EUR 1262.60. Hm, I guess Alicia wasn’t that budget after all in comparison.
Mondo 93-221-3911 Waterfront restaurant in IMAX bldg with beautiful views and warm, accomodating staff. Beware that this place turns into a nightclub later, though. Get fresh, local seafood like Carril clams, cigalas (langoustines), and espardenyes (sea cucumbers). Not cheap but lovely.
INOPIA 93-424-52-31
Chef is Ferran Adria’s brother and a star in his own right. Throngs of people outside trying to get past the ropes to get in so please call ahead. And be hungry. When I think of all the gorgeous courses of food later in the menu that I was really too stuffed to enjoy, I still regret it. My food critic friends says don’t fast on big tasting menu days, rather eat small meals in the day so you can pace yourself when dinner begins.
Cal Pep 93-310-79-61
One of the best eating experiences of my group’s life. Small dining room + counter seating that is always packed and the waiter will tell you to wait even if you have a reservation which you must have. Good luck and don’t give up. The food will make you cry. We got a crazy waiter who kept pretending to almost drop or spill our food and wine. The whole night. And I said that I don’t want to eat meat so even though he brought plenty for the table he also was very generous with plates of verdure. Ahhhhh.
Conde Nast’s concierge.com keeps crashing my computer every time I try to get the link to this article that I copied for my own use, so I’m pasting it here but giving them full credit! It’s a great interview of the famous Adria brothers, their word is gospel. (To skip to maps and practical info on their recos go to: http://gridskipper.com/archives/entries/062/62175.php.)
What’s Cooking in Barcelona
Culinary showstoppers Ferran and Albert Adrià dish about their hometown
Morning
Ferran: I’ll head to Pastelería Escribà and have a chocolate croissant and read the paper (546 Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes; 34-93-454-75-35); take a walk along the seafront; and then go for a vermut (an artisan vermouth that’s very classically Barcelonín) at Quimet & Quimet (25 C/Poeta Cabanyes; 34-93-442-31-42).
Albert: I don’t really eat breakfast. My perfect day is to get up late and watch The Simpsons. I love it and it relaxes me.
Afternoon
Ferran: At Shunka, a Japanese place in the Barri Gòtic, I like to sit at the bar and the boss just gives me what he wants; nigiris are my favorite (5 C/Sagristans; 34-93-412-49-91). At Rías de Galicia, if I’m going upmarket, I go for percebes (goose barnacles) and the best mariscos (seafood) they have (7 C/Lleida; 34-93-424-81-52).
Then, I quite like looking at the photos, music, books, DVDs at FNAC (France’s answer to the UK’s Virgin Megastore); I don’t get much time just for doing normal, everyday things (4 Plaça Catalunya, 34-93-344-1800).
Albert: My favorite place for lunch is on the terrace at home, but I also like to go and eat on a terrazza (terrace) somewhere in Barceloneta. For me, being by the sea is vital. I don’t have a favorite, but it needs to have good fish or arroz (rice) dishes. I shop in the Boqueira but don’t usually eat there because it’s too busy. I do stop for a chat and a coffee at either El Quim (584 Mercat de la Boqueria; 34-93-301-98-10) or Bar Pinotxo (66-67 Mercat de la Boqueria; 34-93-317-17-31). In the summer I spend more time in Rosas, because that’s where El Bulli is (Cala Montjoi, Roses, Girona; 34-97-215-94-57)
I don’t have a lot of free time, but when I do, I like to watch life go by the Ramblas. I also like the Miró museum very much; it’s a great space and I love its location on Montjuïc. I guess my favorite thing is just to walk around Barcelona. You can have been walking the same street for years and you’ll always see something different every time.
Evening
Ferran: I like Inopia, not because it’s my brother’s place, but because of the atmosphere and because it’s good, traditional tapas. I don’t particularly have a favorite dish, though I do love the fried eggplants with honey. The most important thing about it is the people; it’s a real local’s bar.
I’m too old for fiestas (parties) and I don’t go out much at night. But if I want a late-night copa (drink), I like Espai Barroc because it’s so theatrical and different (20 C/Montcada; 34-93-310-06-73).
Albert: I go to Shunka to eat. I’m a friend of the chefs there and it’s interesting to see what they are doing. I think the quality is excellent for the price, so I have about 20 different dishes and then go out for a drink somewhere by the sea.
There’s a new place called Red Lounge, which is very trendy (78 C/Joan de Borbó; 93-221-3093), or I go to bar Colombo, near the boats, for a small caña (beer) (4 C/Escar; 34-93-225-02-00). I prefer places that are a bit quieter.
If I’m in the mood for a party—and I don’t dance much—sometimes I go to Catwalk (2-4 Ramon Trias Fargas; 34-93-221-61-61), or maybe Otto Zutz (15 C/Lincoln; 34-93-238-07-22) uptown.
Additional links for good info:
Into Chocolate? Barcelona will be one of your favoriate places for it in the world: http://www.hotpaella.com/Featured-Spanish-Region-Barcelona.aspx
Read about Barcelona on this English-language website:
http://www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/Default.aspx